https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/ monthly 1.0 https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/travel/ monthly 0.8 https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/travel/bhairab-kunda/ 2026-01-10 monthly 0.9 https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/bhairab-kunda/12-footprints-on-ice.jpgThe Lake You Can Walk On https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/bhairab-kunda/01-on-the-bikes.jpgHelmets on, still in the valley https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/bhairab-kunda/02-barhabise-bazaar.jpgBarhabise, the lowest we would get all trip https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/bhairab-kunda/03-listi-village.jpgListi, terraces and tin, 2,296 m https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/bhairab-kunda/04-border-tea.jpgChinese milk tea, Tibetan label, Nepali dust https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/bhairab-kunda/05-ridge-hut.jpgOne pink roof, and the whole skyline behind it https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/bhairab-kunda/06-goth-stay-sign.jpgThe menu board at 3,920 m https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/bhairab-kunda/07-chokar-mokar-homestay.jpgThe homestay that names its own altitude https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/bhairab-kunda/08-sunrise-camp.jpgTwo of us, one fur hat, minus a lot https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/bhairab-kunda/09-climbing-up.jpgOut along the ridge, nothing left but rock https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/bhairab-kunda/10-skyline.jpgEverything north of us, in one line https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/bhairab-kunda/11-frozen-lake.jpgBhairab Kunda, and people standing on it https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/bhairab-kunda/12-footprints-on-ice.jpgFootprints where the water should be https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/bhairab-kunda/13-at-the-lake.jpgNine in the morning, and worth the whole ride https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/bhairab-kunda/14-shelter-and-range.jpgThe shelter, the ice, and the border behind https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/bhairab-kunda/15-bike-at-camp.jpgA motorbike parked at 3,836 m https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/bhairab-kunda/16-green-pool.jpgFour hours down from the ice https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/bhairab-kunda/17-tatopani-bridge.jpgTatopani, and the road home https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/travel/tilicho/ 2025-10-24 monthly 0.9 https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/cover-tilicho.jpgSix Days to the Lake in the Sky https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_4518.jpgChandeswori before first light https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_4519.jpgOut of Banepa: headlights, dust on the glass https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_4520.jpgGongabu, roof racks loading in the first warm light https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_4521.jpgStill in the city, still doing city things https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_4522.jpgThe breakfast stop, in Red Bull livery https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_4523.jpgBesisahar: power lines, jeeps, one duffel going up https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_0605.jpgThe road at Chyamje, cut into the cliff https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_0614.jpgTwelve minutes later, the same waterfall, with tea https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_4526.jpgChame, found in the dark https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_4527.jpgLit windows on the way through Bhratang https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_4528.jpgLower Pisang: carved balconies, laundry, stone yard https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_4529.jpgA gap in the ridge, and the day's first snow peak https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_0665.jpgGreen Lake: the massif, the smoke, and the water https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_4531.jpgBlue Lake, unedited. Promise. https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_4532.jpgTwo rounds of tea we didn't need, at 3,540 m https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_4533.jpgThe religious object in question, at Alpine Homes https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_4534.jpgShreekharka: a hotel sign, a banner, a lot of gravel https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_1070.jpgBase Camp: blue roofs on a bare brown hill https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_1118.jpgThe shelter up top, under a grey sky https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_4537.jpgOne of us, and a lake that runs out into cloud https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_4538.jpgDown at Moon Lake, legs negotiating https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_4539.jpgLeaving Base Camp: the traverse, single file https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_4540.jpg“Welcome to Manang”: arriving in the snow that ended the plan https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_1377.jpgThe Mungji sign, doing its best in a white-out https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_1380.jpgA bridge, two figures, a gorge going quietly white https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_1383.jpgPast Humde, the road still going white https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/IMG_4544.jpgA highway stop on the long rewind https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/travel/north-abc/ 2025-05-01 monthly 0.9 https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/north-abc/11-walking-in.jpgThe Quiet Side of Annapurna https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/north-abc/01-bus-swayambhu.jpgSwayambhu, seat covers still blue https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/north-abc/02-mugling-night.jpgMugling at midnight, everyone stops here https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/north-abc/03-breakfast-stop.jpgBreakfast under a bamboo roof https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/north-abc/04-road-to-tatopani.jpgThe gorge road, and a dog who did not care https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/north-abc/05-tatopani-street.jpgTatopani under a ceiling of prayer flags https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/north-abc/06-humkhola-roadhead.jpgHumkhola roadhead, where the driving ends https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/north-abc/07-herzog-trail-map.jpgThe board that plans your trip for you https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/north-abc/08-futfutey-falls.jpgPhutphute, pouring through a slot in the rock https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/north-abc/09-gupha-phant.jpgGupha Phant: a log bench and a yellow tarp https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/north-abc/10-first-snow-peak.jpgThe first white thing all day https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/north-abc/11-walking-in.jpgWalking in, with the wall showing up for work https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/north-abc/12-bhusketmela-camp.jpgBhusketmela, 3,651 m, painted on a boulder https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/north-abc/13-milky-way.jpgThe reason nobody slept properly https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/north-abc/14-tent-under-stars.jpgA tent doing its best impression of a lamp https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/north-abc/15-pancha-kunda.jpgPancha Kunda, and two people for scale https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/north-abc/16-moraine-trail.jpgThe last hour is all moraine https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/north-abc/17-back-at-bhusket.jpgBack down to the coloured tents https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/north-abc/18-humkhola-hydro.jpgHumkhola, and the turbine that runs it https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/north-abc/19-muktinath.jpgMuktinath: brown hills, blue jeeps, no trees https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/travel/panch-pokhari/ 2024-08-16 monthly 0.9 https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/panch-pokhari/12-mirror.jpgFive Lakes in the Cloud https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/panch-pokhari/01-bikes-and-terraces.jpgThree bikes, green terraces, monsoon overhead https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/panch-pokhari/02-waterfall-stop.jpgA wash stop on the way up the gorge https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/panch-pokhari/03-the-bridge.jpgPrayer flags on the crossing, first morning on foot https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/panch-pokhari/04-rosefinches.jpgTwo visitors at the tea stop https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/panch-pokhari/05-the-steep-bit.jpgThe steep bit, before the steps take over https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/panch-pokhari/06-stone-steps.jpgThe steps go on longer than you think https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/panch-pokhari/07-the-four-of-us.jpgAll four, still cheerful about it https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/panch-pokhari/08-lodge-in-cloud.jpgA courtyard, a flag line, and no view at all https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/panch-pokhari/09-the-board.jpgThe board that draws all five of them https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/panch-pokhari/10-at-the-shrine.jpgAt the temple, 4,050 m, visibility about forty feet https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/panch-pokhari/11-first-lake.jpgThe first pond, still doing its impression of nothing https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/panch-pokhari/12-mirror.jpgAnd then the cloud got out of the way https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/panch-pokhari/13-the-cleft.jpgThe way out runs through a crack in the rock https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/panch-pokhari/14-up-through-the-flowers.jpgEveryone walks the same stone staircase https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/panch-pokhari/15-sheep-in-bloom.jpgSheep, and about a million flowers https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/panch-pokhari/16-yak-in-cloud.jpgRight of way, obviously https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/panch-pokhari/18-above-the-lake.jpgAbove the water, with the cloud coming over the rim https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/panch-pokhari/17-cloud-through-the-trees.jpgGoing down, and the cloud came back up https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/travel/phoksundo/ 2021-11-06 monthly 0.9 https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/upper-viewpoint.jpgFour Days Walking, Five Days Getting There https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/nepalgunj-milestone.jpgNepalgunj, zero kilometres, in case you doubted it https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/jajarkot-67km.jpgJajarkot, 67 km, which will take most of the day https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/bheri-gorge.jpgThe Bheri, first look, already showing off https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/tribeni-village.jpgTribeni, where the jeep took its first break https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/tripura-sundari-flags.jpgTripura Sundari at 06:57, flags doing all the talking https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/tripurakot-jhulunge-pul.jpgThe Tripurakot jhulunge pul, one at a time https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/suligad-bridge.jpgSuligad. The road ends here and the walking starts https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/take-nothing-but-photographs.jpgThe park says it plainly https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/shey-phoksundo-gate.jpgShey Phoksundo National Park, Suligad entrance https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/mules-at-the-trees.jpgThe morning shift, tied up and unimpressed https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/sidak-tea.jpgTea at Sidak, ten minutes of it https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/sidak-tea-house.jpgSidak Tea House: Phoksundo 5:30, Chhepka 1:30 https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/snow-peak-and-river.jpgThe first white summit of the day https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/the-climb.jpgThaado ukaalo, the honest kind https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/ringmo-kani.jpgThe kani at Ringmo, and you are officially in Upper Dolpo https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/rigmo-3635.jpgRigmo (3635). Phoksundo Lake, 10 minutes https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/first-sight-of-the-lake.jpgFirst sight, last light https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/lake-at-six-thirty.jpg06:31, walking out to see it properly https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/upper-viewpoint.jpgUpper viewpoint. Nobody said anything for a while https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/phoksundo-panorama.jpgThe whole of it, 10:29 https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/lake-from-the-trail.jpgLeaving, with the lake refusing to get smaller https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/chhepka-kitchen-fire.jpgChhepka kitchen, 23:19. We slept in here https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/dressed-horses.jpgTwo horses dressed better than any of us https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/the-gorge-road.jpgThe road back, cut into the side of it https://ujjwolkayastha.com.np/blog/media/phoksundo/nine-pairs-of-shoes.jpgNine pairs, and the work they did